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protecon protecon is offline
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Posts: 53
Join Date: Sep 2016
Car: 2010 X5M MCB
Default 10-15-2017, 06:15 PM

Part 2.

Originally Posted by TEC
So my goal was to install two Walbro 450 pumps so that I could run e85 and push boost above 17 psi on the stock turbos. I looked at a few companies offerings but I decided that I could build something that rivaled and even bettered what is currently on the market for a cheaper cost. This is not a knock on any company or their pricing for dual intank pumps but rather my Colt/DSM mentality to do it yourself and learn more about your car in the process.

First and foremost, I want to thank 07Tundra (Jose) for his help with this project. All of this would not have been possible without his help.

More on how the dual Walbro 450 pump assembly that I am installing, was created can be found in this thread:

Now, time for the install.

Legal note: I do not assume any responsibility for errors or omissions contained within this DIY. All users of this DIY assume responsibility for any issues or problems that arise from the use of this DIY. This DIY should be used as a supplemental aid only. If you are unsure of your abilities or steps to complete this task you should consult a professional for assistance.

Time needed: 2-3 hours

Tools needed:
Small flathead screwdriver
10mm socket
Lock Ring removal tool (recommended)
Cutting pliers
½” Socket Breaker Bar
25 amp mini fuse
Vent line hose clip (underside)
1/8” Tee
1/8”x1/8” straight hose connector
1/8” Hose x 1/8” NPT Female connector
Zip ties
Old bucket (Homer bucket, Lowes bucket, etc.)

Step 1: Prep

TIP: Your fuel gauge should be at ¼ tank or less. Less is better in this case…believe me.

Start by removing the fuel cap to release any pressure in the system.
Next remove the 20 amp mini fuse for the fuel pump (position 70), this will be replaced later with a 25amp fuse

Step 2: Seat Removal

Next remove the passenger side back seat (E92) or rear seat (E9x) (e92 shown in pics)

Pull up on front edge of the rear seat. There are two clips on both sides. This may require a bit of effort so pull like you mean it lol.

Under seat clip

Once you have the seat removed place it to the side and pull back the black mat.

Step 3: Fuel Pump Removal

Use a 10mm socket to remove the four nuts to expose the fuel pump lock ring.
TIP: MAKE SURE TO NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE CAP (the arrow points towards the front of the car, as well as the dimple)

Once you have the lock ring exposed, you will need to disconnect the two plugs located on top. The plugs have a small lever on the side which must be pressed in to release the plugs from the cap.

Once you have the plugs removed, you will need to disconnect the vent lines. The vent lines have a small lever (blue in the picture) that must be pressed in in order for the vent lines to be removed.

Once you have all the lines removed, it’s time to remove the lock ring. The small vent line can be tucked out of the way between the fuel tank and the body.

The larger vent line, however, will be your constant enemy in getting this project done as it always seems to get in the way.

TIP: Your best bet it to get a piece of string to wrap around the head of the larger vent line and then wrapping the other end of the string around the seat hook under the seat back in order to get the vent line out of the way.

TIP: I found this tool on Amazon for a bit over $10 shipped (with Amazon Prime). It works flawlessly to remove the cap and to tighten the cap. No need for a $40 tool.

If you are using the tool above or similar tool, align the lock ring teeth with the tool. Put your breaker bar on the top of the tool and turn counter clockwise to remove the lock ring. Steady, strong force wins the race here.

After removing the lock ring you are now ready to remove the fuel pump.
Lift the top of the pump enough to access the vent line. This vent line is short, be careful not to pull the head of the vent line out of the vent tube when trying to get the vent line off.

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