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protecon protecon is offline
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Posts: 53
Join Date: Sep 2016
Car: 2010 X5M MCB
Default 10-15-2017, 06:23 PM

Part 3.

Originally Posted by TEC
Removal of this clip will probably take up most of your time and be the bane of your existence. There are two teeth on both sides of the clip that must be dislocated in order to remove the vent line.

TIP: I recommend buying a spare one and having it on hand in case you get frustrated and decide to just break it in order to get it off.

In order get this clip out you must push on both exposed sides of the clip a bit at a time. You cannot simply push one side out and then the other as it will lock in the teeth on the opposite side. Both sides of the clip must move together as much as possible.

Once you have the vent line detached, you can disconnect the fuel pump and fuel level clips on the underside of the bucket cap.

Hopefully you have a tank that is near empty. Pour as much of the fuel in your fuel bucket back into the tank before you try to remove the fuel bucket.

To remove the bucket, pull up on the bucket until you feel resistance, then rock the bucket towards the passenger side door to get the fuel level float out with the bucket.

Set fuel pump assembly in your old bucket (homer bucket).

Step 4: Dual Fuel Pump Install

Your new setup (if you decided to copy my setup) is quite a bit larger than the original pump. This part is a little tricky but donít let it get the best of you, take your time on this part and things will go smoothly.

First, connect all of your wiring as shown previously, if you are using a similar set up as described earlier. Make sure your fuel pump and fuel level connections are connected and tight. You do not want to have the need to dig back into the tank again to fix something.

Next, fold your fuel pickup pads in half in order to be able to get them into the tank. Do not fold them under but fold them up so that once in the tank the pads are able to lay out to their full length. Now, turn the assembly on its side to put the fuel level float into the tank first. Then turn the tank upright and ease the folded pickup pads into the tank. The assembly should drop right in after doing this.

TIP: Make sure that your fuel level float moves freely and is not stuck underneath the fuel pick up pad or the edge of the bucket once the fuel pump assembly has been lowered into the tank.

[Below: The top of the bucket is not assembled in order to take clear pictures]

Next, you will need to modify your fuel feed line.

Remove the end piece on the fuel feed line carefully. You will need to remove the clamp and heat the tubing a little in order get the end piece out. DO NOT USE AN OPEN FLAME TO HEAT THE END PIECE!!

Once you have removed the end piece, push the hose from your fuel pumps into the fuel feed line. Use a clamp to secure the lines together.

Re-attach your vent lines and ensure that all your connections are tight.
Next, push the top of the bucket down onto the tank. Make sure the top of the fuel bucket has a lip that aligns with the top of the tank. Put the top fuel pump ring on while holding the top of the bucket down. Turn the ring clockwise by hand until you feel the screws catch. Continue turning the ring until you feel enough resistance to need the lock ring tool to turn the ring enough to get it back to its original position.

Note that there are teeth missing on the top lock ring. The large vent line should center in between the missing teeth. This is your indication that you have tightened the lock ring down enough.

The fuel pump install is now complete. Lets work on the Hobbs switch before we put the rear seat back in.

Step 5: Hobbs switch install

If you are using a pre-assembled harness as shown above this will describe exactly what you will need to install it.

As you can see, one end will need to connect to the fuel pump, the other end will need to be connected to the battery and a ground, while the last end of the harness will need to be connected to a positive boost source.

Before we get started, I need to give credit to jyamona@motiv from which I totally stole the idea to hook up the hobbs switch in the trunk.

Lets layout the harness in the trunk so that you can get a better idea of where things will end up.

Remove the trunk floor in your car and layout the harness.

Pull the end of the harness going to the fuel pump underneath the trunk surround and under the rear seat back.

Put a hole in rubber part of the top of the fuel tank cover.

Then fish the end of your hobbs switch harness through the hole you have made in the rubber grommet.

Connect the harness to the fuel pump.

You are now ready to re-install your rear seat bottom cushion.

Next, remove the accessory compartment on the drivers side of the trunk. Fish the hobbs switch and harness under the trunk flooring.

The exhaust flapper solenoid is accessible through the access panel on the drivers side. Unplug the solenoid and remove the hose that connects to the bottom (not the side hose, this connects to the flapper in the exhaust system)

Connect the hose to the hobbs switch. The hose should be accessible through the hole where the accessory compartment was located that was removed earlier.

Now, you can put the accessory compartment back into place as we are done her.

Next lets move to the other side where the battery is located so that we can connect power to the harness.

Remove the access panel for the battery on the passenger side.

Connect the negative cable to the bolt shown and the positive cable fits neatly in the area shown on the battery terminal.

Tuck the relay and fuse in behind the battery. Put the battery access panel back into place.
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