[notfrosty1]

Hey guys I finally got all my engine problems taken care of (knock on wood)
I replaced my belt, coolant lines oil lines etc from my previous post “only god can help me now” however now that the engine is running right, the car won’t allow me to shift into reverse or drive, when I take it out of park I get a warning that reads: “transmission in neutral!” After which it is accompanied by the generic “transmission malfunction” light i drove the car into my garage and now suddenly it won’t shift. The battery has died 3 times while I’ve been working on it, do I need to have the tcu reset? Thanks in advance

[notfrosty1]

Previous post: https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54798

[JuniorB]

Drive the car fo a day, in the morning, put an amp meter on it. This will tell you all you need to know if your battery is good. Even though you see volts, you may not be meeting amps. If it's below, and old, replace it. Go from there.

[notfrosty1]

Originally Posted by JuniorB

Drive the car fo a day, in the morning, put an amp meter on it. This will tell you all you need to know if your battery is good. Even though you see volts, you may not be meeting amps. If it's below, and old, replace it. Go from there.

I can’t drive the car since it won’t go into reverse or drive...

[Tuppidsay]

Valve body sleeve part number 24347588724

[notfrosty1]

Originally Posted by Tuppidsay

Valve body sleeve part number 24347588724

I’m not sure what to do with this information is this something I should replace?

[notfrosty1]

I’ve replaced the battery to see if maybe that has something to do with it but to no avail. When I initially broke my car, I broke the transmission oil cooler, I didn’t notice any oil that leaked out even though I broke the oil line, is there somewhere I need to put oil in besides the engine oil? Could that be what’s preventing me from engaging Into gear?

[lead_injection]

Will it go into neutral where you can push it around?

I've had the electronic shifter break on my car at some 120k-130k miles. That was one of the dumbest fixes that required a tow I've had to deal with on my car.

Had to use this procedure to get it into neutral to get on the tow truck:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGWv-SbzLVE

[dmckmc]

I may have missed it but did you ever check the transmission fluid level after damage to the trans cooler? Low or no fluid could certainly cause a transmission malfunction.

[notfrosty1]

Originally Posted by lead_injection

Will it go into neutral where you can push it around?

I've had the electronic shifter break on my car at some 120k-130k miles. That was one of the dumbest fixes that required a tow I've had to deal with on my car.

Had to use this procedure to get it into neutral to get on the tow truck:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGWv-SbzLVE

Thank you so much for the reply, yes it does go into neutral, it also reads out the correct gear that it’s (supposed to be) in but just rolls. Is this the same problem you had? The car is around 126k miles

[notfrosty1]

Originally Posted by dmckmc

I may have missed it but did you ever check the transmission fluid level after damage to the trans cooler? Low or no fluid could certainly cause a transmission malfunction.

I have not and I don’t have the slightest clue how to do it. Can’t find any model specific DIYs any insight here?

[lead_injection]

Originally Posted by notfrosty1

Thank you so much for the reply, yes it does go into neutral, it also reads out the correct gear that it’s (supposed to be) in but just rolls. Is this the same problem you had? The car is around 126k miles

The electronic shifter failure won't allow the car to come out of park. I also did not get transmission error codes when it happened.

It sounds like your problem is probably related to something else like the other guys are saying.

Have you got a decent independent mechanic around you?

[m5james]

Could be a couple of things:

- I'd swapped in a new battery after my stock 90ah AGM battery wasn't holding a charge anymore. I put in a higher CCA lead acid battery, registered it but couldn't figure out how to code the damn thing. 6 months later and I've got crazy electrical gremlins like yours. I finally broke down and bought an Autozone AGM, registered again and it seems to be fine so far as I was actually able to drive more than two feet without it throwing me into neutral, park and/or transmission failsafe...all accompanied with the Christmas tree of lights

- I was clearing codes via Carista app but they'd come back right away. Seems using Rheingold/ISTA works better.

- I'd double check your trans fluid level, hell, do a fill and drain with filter while you're at it if you haven't done it before at every 50k. If you have before, check that it's topped off...low fluid means low fluid pressure means the torque converter isn't moving means your car isn't going to move.

[notfrosty1]

Originally Posted by m5james

- I'd double check your trans fluid level, hell, do a fill and drain with filter while you're at it if you haven't done it before at every 50k. If you have before, check that it's topped off...low fluid means low fluid pressure means the torque converter isn't moving means your car isn't going to move.

Holy cow I just checked, I drained the trans fluid. There’s supposed to be nearly 5L that come out and there was less than a quart, I’m going to try driving in just a few minutes

[JuniorB]

+1 on a new battery, I meant by charging the battery, after 24 hrs, load test. Electronic failures like these out or know were often lead to weak batterys that can't produce enough amps.

[andrew.g35.04@gmail.com]

Did you ever get this figured out I’m having a similar issue